Bespoke from Vass Shoes in Budapest no. 2

Bespoke from Vass Shoes: Since I started buying quality shoes about 2.5 years ago I’ve done my fair share of “less good” purchases. I’ve always likes double monk straps and so far this is my 4th pair, and the only one I have left. My first pair of quality shoes was actually a pair from Allen Edmond’s, brown DMs with a very poor fit =). Second pair was black DMs from Carmina, OK fit but black DMs? Maybe not a prio in the shoe wardrobe in my opinion. Third pair was a pair of brown DMs from Oscar Jacobson by Italigente. OK shoes, ok fit but experienced other feet issues with them.

Luckily I’ve managed to sell all 3 pairs and decided to go for a new pair of DMs that have the characteristics that I’m actually looking for, especially fit. Fit is often a issue when it comes to DMs, especially if you have narrow feet and low instep like me, as you don’t have the laces to help you get that snug fit you want.

Not long ago I ordered a pair of semi bespoke shoes from Vass (read the post here), and wanted to use the same last for a pair of DMs. I’ve seen different make ups of DMs from Vass on the internet and I really like the shape and color that Vass offers, and also the price compared to other manufacturers is very affordable given the quality and craftsmanship.

For those who have not heard about Vass before here is a very short introduction:
Vass’ shop is located in the heart of Budapest’s city centre led by the founder László Vass together with his daughter Eva Vass. Vass makes handmade ready-to-wear and bespoke shoes in different styles, some more classic and others more modern. In their workshop they use the same kind of tools that shoemakers used many centuries ago. For more info please visit their website.

And now to my order:
Disclaimer: The shoes are a review pair from Vass Shoes.

The specifications I used are as follows:

  • Double monk with cap toe
  • F-last modified
  • Size according to spec (with small modifications to previous last + add some extra mm width in both shoes) – added a picture showing where to add extra space
  • Color: Dark brown museum
  • Sole: Single leather sole + Rubber toe protector and thin rubber topy
  • Brass buckles
  • Straps shorter rounded
  • Modification:
    • Dog tail seem in back
  • Lasted Shoes trees (no extra charge when ordering bespoke)

The following pictures were added to the order to visualize my choices:

 

500x1000px-LL-c53c3d50_VassDBTwo
Double Monkstrap Cap Toe F last
Add extra width here
Add some extra space in this area
Rubber toe protector and thin rubber topy 2.
Rubber toe protector and thin rubber topy
Buckles
Brass Buckles and rounded straps (shorter)
back seam
Back seam

 

There have been some discussions regarding my choice of rubber topy for these shoes. The reason is that I have several shoes with leather soles and also some pairs with Dainite/York soles. So what I needed or wanted was a shoe in between, not so “chunky” as a Dainite, and a bit less sensitive to the wet Swedish weather conditions (it gets quite slippery with leather soles). That’s why I went for a more “practical” approach on this pair =)

Also the rubber toe protection was something I’ve seen in various pictures and wanted to try. I will have to get back with the review on this choice later on. But so far so good.

The result:

I’m very pleased with the result, a nice dress shoes that goes perfect with suit and also for more casual looks. The dark brown museum is very subtle, yet giving the shoe a bit more character. I also find the F last giving the shoe a sleek and classic look. The fit on this pair is a bit better than the first pair with the small adjustments I did around the widest part. I took 4 attempts but now I think I’ve found myself the perfect Double Monk shoe =)

Bespoke from Vass Shoes

Bespoke from Vass ShoesBespoke from Vass Shoes Bespoke from Vass Shoes Bespoke from Vass Shoes20160316-IMG_3300

11 comments on “Bespoke from Vass Shoes in Budapest no. 2

  1. Excellent read. I’ll definitely share.

  2. Ser riktigt fina ut! Tycker dock fortfarande att gummitån inte behövs då man har en topy 😉

  3. Hi Aleks, good read here!
    I also have gappings near the ankle in several pairs, which I think might because of my narrower feet and lower instep. and I thought MTM/bespoke may fix that.

    However, I see from your pictures here that in this made to measure DM, you still have a small gapping between the shoe and the ankle of your left foot(I may be wrong), is this gapping fixable or not?

    • Hi Manas, thanks for your comment,
      I also have narrow feet and very low instep, I think especially the low instep causes this gap.
      It’s much smaller now than on my other pair but still there. I’m not quite sure how to fix this.
      I think the way to get rid of it must be full bespoke and also more ankle support. Vass offers semi bespoke (modification on their current last) so I’m not sure on how flexible that solution is.
      Let me know if you find out anything else yourself.

  4. Sure, will keep following your blog too!

  5. Hello,

    You mention that your shoes are “F-last modified”. In that case could you clarify please whether they are made to measure (from a modified last) or bespoke?

    Best regards,

    Ro

    • Hi Ro,

      Vass calles it Semi-bespoke, that is they use an exisitng last, in my case F, and to modifications to it.
      So somewhere in between baspoke and made-to measure I would say

Leave a Reply