Bespoke from Vass Shoes: Since I started buying quality shoes about 2.5 years ago I’ve done my fair share of “less good” purchases. I’ve always likes double monk straps and so far this is my 4th pair, and the only one I have left. My first pair of quality shoes was actually a pair from Allen Edmond’s, brown DMs with a very poor fit =). Second pair was black DMs from Carmina, OK fit but black DMs? Maybe not a prio in the shoe wardrobe in my opinion. Third pair was a pair of brown DMs from Oscar Jacobson by Italigente. OK shoes, ok fit but experienced other feet issues with them.
Luckily I’ve managed to sell all 3 pairs and decided to go for a new pair of DMs that have the characteristics that I’m actually looking for, especially fit. Fit is often a issue when it comes to DMs, especially if you have narrow feet and low instep like me, as you don’t have the laces to help you get that snug fit you want.
Not long ago I ordered a pair of semi bespoke shoes from Vass (read the post here), and wanted to use the same last for a pair of DMs. I’ve seen different make ups of DMs from Vass on the internet and I really like the shape and color that Vass offers, and also the price compared to other manufacturers is very affordable given the quality and craftsmanship.
For those who have not heard about Vass before here is a very short introduction:
Vass’ shop is located in the heart of Budapest’s city centre led by the founder László Vass together with his daughter Eva Vass. Vass makes handmade ready-to-wear and bespoke shoes in different styles, some more classic and others more modern. In their workshop they use the same kind of tools that shoemakers used many centuries ago. For more info please visit their website.
And now to my order:
Disclaimer: The shoes are a review pair from Vass Shoes.
The specifications I used are as follows:
- Double monk with cap toe
- F-last modified
- Size according to spec (with small modifications to previous last + add some extra mm width in both shoes) – added a picture showing where to add extra space
- Color: Dark brown museum
- Sole: Single leather sole + Rubber toe protector and thin rubber topy
- Brass buckles
- Straps shorter rounded
- Dog tail seem in back
- Lasted Shoes trees (no extra charge when ordering bespoke)
The following pictures were added to the order to visualize my choices:
There have been some discussions regarding my choice of rubber topy for these shoes. The reason is that I have several shoes with leather soles and also some pairs with Dainite/York soles. So what I needed or wanted was a shoe in between, not so “chunky” as a Dainite, and a bit less sensitive to the wet Swedish weather conditions (it gets quite slippery with leather soles). That’s why I went for a more “practical” approach on this pair =)
Also the rubber toe protection was something I’ve seen in various pictures and wanted to try. I will have to get back with the review on this choice later on. But so far so good.
I’m very pleased with the result, a nice dress shoes that goes perfect with suit and also for more casual looks. The dark brown museum is very subtle, yet giving the shoe a bit more character. I also find the F last giving the shoe a sleek and classic look. The fit on this pair is a bit better than the first pair with the small adjustments I did around the widest part. I took 4 attempts but now I think I’ve found myself the perfect Double Monk shoe =)