During the ‘Leather Trunk Show’ at Engelska Herr earlier this autumn, I took the opportunity to take my measurements for a pair of Hestra bespoke gloves. Finding good fitting RTW gloves is as hard as finding a RTW suit. Hestra was one of the exhibitors during the trunk show and I had the chance to meet Niklas Magnusson, bespoke glove cutter and assistant director at the family owned company Hestra. Niklas had brought a wide range of different leathers and lining and was taking orders for MTO and bespoke gloves, or actually MTM gloves the whole day (more on that further down in this article). I took my measurements during the trunk show and placed the order some while later when I had decided on what make up I wanted.
Disclaimer: the gloves are a review pair from Hestra
STEP 1: GETTING YOUR MEASURE
Measuring the hands is the first step in crafting a pair of Hestra bespoke gloves. You choose the style of glove, lining, what type of sewing and other details before the measurements are taken. Bespoke glove cutters Anton or Niklas Magnusson assist you.
STEP 2: PATTERN MAKING
Normally after first appointment the glove cutters from Hestra will go back to Småland and create the personal templates according to the measurement and choice of style. A mock- up glove is made in accordance with the original art of glove making. The leather is cut in the city Hestra by Anton or Niklas and sewn together and finished by skilled craftsmen in a small workshop in Hungary.
STEP 3: FIRST FITTING
After a couple of weeks, a mock-up of the Hestra bespoke gloves is ready for the first fitting. This allows to make any necessary adjustments to ensure a perfect fit. During this appointment you choose what type of leather and colour you wish.
In my case as this was a trunk show, Niklas had prepared a wide range of fitting gloves that were used instead of a personal sample gloves. This qualifies under Made to Measure (MTM) and was what was offered during the trunk show. According to Niklas, of course you don’t get as perfect result as with bespoke or personal sample gloves, but very close!! With this approach you speeds up the process and delivery time quite a lot and it doesn’t demand a visit to Stockholm or Hestra for fitting or for you to wait for the next trunk show close by.
STEP 4: CUTTING THE GLOVE
The templates are adjusted according to the sample glove before the piece of leather for your gloves is selected. After the material have been prepared, the correct pieces are cut out and then sewn. After dressing, ironing and polish the Hestra bespoke gloves are ready for delivery.
FROM THE TRUNK SHOW
I ended up choosing a pair of classic unlined Peccary Siena gloves with palm button made up in their 20030 model. The colour is mid-brown with colour reference 730.
The fit is really great, of course better than any other of my gloves, and the leather is really soft and supple. Normally gloves tend to be to wide or the fingers to short, but in this case neither of those problems exist. Really looking forward to give this pair the use they deserve before it gets to cold! Next pair will definitely be a pair of lined gloves for the colder parts of the year. Looking forward to the next chance to take my measures for a pair of lined Hestra bespoke gloves.
PECCARY – WILD BOAR LEATHER FROM SOUTH AMERICA
Peccary leather is soft, supple and warm but also considered to be the most exclusive gloving leather. The peccary gloves are always cut from the same piece of leather and always along the back of the animal. This is something you can tell by looking closely at a pair, where the follicle is horizontal.
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Below is a very interesting video on how Hestra bespoke gloves are made. Here you can see all the steps in making a quality glove.